Simplicity 1916 "Orchid Dream"

Hello everyone!

Things have been looking up for me!  I started the week by working on the wadder I showed you in my previous post.  Well, I am happy to report that S1916 is no longer a wadder!  Now, granted, I will definitely have to adjust future versions of this top, but I am happy with the changes I made to make this top work.

 

This was my first wrap top.  I thought View A (top row, on the right) was a nice variation, but decided to go with a basic top (View D) after much thought.  I used a cotton jersey knit in Vibrant Violet from Fabric mart Fabrics.  Even though the description says jersey, though, this knit behaves in a clingy fashion.  It might have some lycra content, I'm not too sure.  Anyhow, it was a nice fabric to sew, and I mainly purchased the fabric for its stunning color.

I sewed a size 10, and made the following adjustments:

• 1/4" Square shoulder
• 1/2" Swayback 
• 1" added length to hem 
• Waist graded to size 14ish

At first, I was loving the way this top was coming together from the moment I started it.  The directions were nice and clear, my adjustments seemed to be working out well, and even my gathering looked nice (and I hate gathering).  However, as soon as I tried it on, I got some pulling at my shoulder seams!!!  I realized that I should have added a broad back adjustment to this top, and didn't even think about checking the shoulder seam length against my TNT pattern.

So...lesson learned.  I ended up playing with the sleeve allowances to add more room, but, in the end, decided to just keep them at 5/8".  The end result is not as bad as I anticipated while sewing and trying the top on.

The drag lines are mainly noticeable when I lift my arms for any reason.  Other than that, this top is great!  It is simple enough for a beginner, and the finishing on the neckline is soooo nice!!!  It is one of my favorite features of the whole top.  

To note, though, the sizing does seem to run small in this top.  With my Vogue knit top I did not need a broad back adjustment, but for this one I definitely do.  I would definitely remake this top and tweak that issue for a more comfortable fit.

Also, I ended up tacking down the front bodice pieces for modesty.  

The back has a center back seam, and fits pretty good.  For the hemming and neckline I used my stretch stitch without any problems.  I didn't use stabilizers because I decided to forgo the twin needle.  To be honest, I am finding that I prefer this method over everything I have tried.  It still gives a professional look, it is just a beast to remove if you make a mistake.  So, don't make a mistake! : )

Overall, I definitely like this one!  I guess it will come down to how irritated I get about the minimal shoulder room.  We shall see.  In the meantime, I may do another version next month.  For now, I must move on.

And I will be moving on to the repeatedly sewn Mccalls cardigan:

M6844

I will be diving straight into this one so I can finish it this week.  If all goes well, that will leave me a WEEK to get as far as I can (and maybe even finish) my jeans.

With regard to M6844, I realize that I get nervous when sewing a new pattern that I have not muslined or sewn before.  I really like to know what I am getting, or at least have an idea of how it will fit me when I am all finished.  That said, I am a little hesitant sewing this cardigan, even with all the wonderful reviews for it.  Maybe it's all of the sewing "issues" I have had this month.

Anyhow, I will press on, and see you soon with a finished cardigan!

Have a beautiful day, and stay sew-filled!