Tuesday, June 4, 2019

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Hello everyone!

Today I am finally getting a chance to show you what I made over a month ago!  Yes, my first pair of handmade skinny jeans are completed:

These are the beloved Closet Case Ginger Jeans!  They are mid-rise, and I have owned the pattern since last year.  If you know my story then you know I have struggled in the area of pants making before.  I have had a lot of "failed" attempts at fitting my curvy body, and so I have avoided pants patterns because of it.  

In April I decided that I would work on the Ginger jeans in my spare time, and see if I could get a fit I was happy with. It was a way of taking the pressure off of the whole process, and learning from what didn't work for previous versions.  In all actuality, I think the drafting for this pattern helped to sway my results in the right direction!  Some other things I did that were helpful:

This is what the website says about this pattern: "Our best-selling Ginger Jeans are now available in a universally flattering mid-rise cut! These jeans are the daily staple you’ll reach for again and again.

This PDF only jeans pattern includes a skinny and stovepipe leg option, both options featuring a tummy-slimming pocket stay. Hitting just below the belly button (about halfway between the low and high rise of the original Ginger Jeans), the Mid-Rise Ginger Jeans feature subtly shaped back pockets to highlight the curve of the bum, slimming side seams and a higher back rise to prevent peekabooty. Designed for stretch denim, Ginger Jeans will hug you in all the right places."
The version I chose to make is View B, the mid-rise with skinny legs.  I cut a size 10 for the front, and graded to a 12 at the hips.  For the back, I cut a size 12 throughout.  My additional adjustments were as follows:
  • 1/2" swayback adjustment
  • 1 1/4" full seat adjustment (which changed my LIFE)
  • 1/4" crotch lengthen
  • 1/2" hyperextended calf 
  • scooped out the back curve
For fabric I used a stretch denim from my stash.  It is slightly stretchy, probably 1-2% in a mid-weight.

My waist (30") and hip measurement (40") fell perfectly within a size 12, but for some reason, I have always had SO MUCH EXCESS at the center front when I followed my hip measurement.  I saw in the Bluprint class that I could be smaller in those areas and need to size down, and grade out for my hips.  That made total sense!

Anyhow, there is a method Kathleen Cheetham uses to help you measure your body and determine whether this is the right choice for you.  I tried it, and it worked well for me.  I can't wait to see if it is helpful for other pants I sew.

Much of the construction for these pants was easy.  The only places I needed additional help was with the fly front. When I sewed the fly front on my first attempt, it just didn't sit right.  The zipper was not positioned deep enough to allow for adequate closure of the pants.  So, I took it out and restitched it with the assistance of the Sew Sew Live tutorial, and it was perfect!  I mean she seriously makes it look easy peasy!  If I had three fly fronts lined up to sew, I would have stitched them one after the other!

Back Pockets/Pocket Stay
These were so much fun!!!!  I mean, the best part of jeans are creating the back pockets, right?  I knew I wanted something with angles, so I began researching some designs for inspiration.  During that search I found out that Closet Case has over 40 back pocket designs that you can download once you join their newsletter.  I knew I had been a part of their newsletter for a long time, so I searched my email and found it (yes)!

After skimming through it, I was immediately struck by this one:

It was exactly what I was looking for!  I liked the look of the "V," and cheesy enough, my name is Vanessa, so there you go!  The pockets are transposed in the picture, but I really love the shaping of these.  Once you sew them on, they look really nice.  

A word about the back pockets, though.  I basted mine on first and they were extremely low for my backside.  I ended up moving them up about an inch, and they looked much better.  If you are in doubt, check them out first before you commit and sew them on.

For the pocket stay, I decided to use some cotton sateen from my stash.  It was leftover from the dress I wanted to make for my brother's wedding a few years ago, and I still very much loved it and thought it would be a nice sight when pulling on these jeans.  I must say, I LOVE the pocket stay!  I am not sure if it slims my tummy, but I love the fact that it does not hang freely, and is enclosed within the CF and waistband.

Flat-fell seams
For these jeans, you flat-fell your seams on the wrong side.  However, you can flat fell the groin seam if you choose.  I decided to go with the serged flat fell seam for the inside. I serged my seam edges first (with cut feature disabled), stitched my seams right sides together, then trimmed one side to 1/4" and pressed the other serged seam over the cut edge.  You can read about it here.

I admit I wasn't nervous about most of the topstitching, only about getting the fly front curve right, and the bartacked areas, since I have to put those settings in my machine myself.  I practiced the topstitching on scraps, and find that visualizing a specific spot on my presser foot, and keeping that spot lined up helped the most.  

There is also a fly front guide that works beautifully.  I traced my stitch lines onto my jeans with chalk, and had no issues.  If you have never made jeans before, you will use LOTS of topstitching thread. LOTS!  The best tip I read from the pattern (there are many of them) is to use topstitching thread on the top, and regular thread for your bobbin.  Why, of course!! I didn't think of that before, even when I made pants in the past.  It significantly decreases how much topstitching thread you need, but it also makes your thread changes a lot faster since you are only switching out the thread for the needle.

The waistband is constructed by a front and back piece.  There is a slight curve to the band, but due to my swayback, I had to cut some darts on the pattern piece to create a more curved piece (see here).  There is also additional length to the waistband so that you have what you need to line up the edges at CF.

I will say that my machine had a lot of issues while topstitching the waistband, due to all the layers of denim.  There are some snarled threads on the underside, but that's ok.  I re-tried it a couple of times, and even changed my needle/tension, but it still did it, so I left it well alone.  For the buttonhole, I had to change to regular thread, which I matched as best I could.  I think I will just use regular thread on my next pair (of course there will be more).

Pattern Adjustments/final fitting
It's been a while so I can't quite remember the order of construction I went through.  However, I do know that I followed the pattern instructions to baste for fit.  After I made all the modifications, I took out the basting stitches and did the final stitching.  I think the front and back were fully assembled and topstitched at this point, so it is not as extensive as it sounds.

I also used a pair of RTW jeans (on the right above) from my closet to create the shape I wanted for my skinny jeans.  These were an Old Navy pair I bought years ago.  They fit well, but had faded quite a bunch.  The Ginger jeans still had quite a bit of excess fabric I could remove to get a better shape.  Here is what my pattern looked like after I transferred the changes:

The green marker is where I removed additional fabric.  I have left the pattern intact in case I use a denim with less stretch in the future.  I can always adjust, but those lines are a guide for where I like the shaping to occur.

Thankfully I purchased the Ginger Jeans kit last year when I got the pattern.  It has all the rivets, needles, and buttons you need to add those finishing touches to your pants. You can definitely individually source the items, but I have a soft spot for reasonably priced kits that make it easy.  

Installing the rivets were not a problem, but I had to limit the amount I used because I just could not set them in some of the bulkier areas.  I placed them on the front, but left off the rest for the back.  I will try again with a lighter weight denim.

I can gladly say that the final result of these jeans fits me MUCH better than my RTW pair!  But that is probably because my butt has room, and my jeans don't gap!

Speaking of the next pair, I will probably adjust the rise slightly.  Right now they feel more high-waisted than mid-rise, so I will decrease that some.  Other than that, I LOVE THESE!!!!!!!!!!  

Stay sew-filled!

Saturday, May 25, 2019

Rock Your Style/Summer Plans

Hello everyone!

I am back to share my second look for the recent photoshoot I did with Atlanta Sewing style.  The theme was "Rock Your Style."  In other words, do your thang!  It actually took me a few weeks to figure out what I wanted my "thang" to be.

I have talked before about how I have a classic style with a bit of trend, and love to air on the side of sophistication.  Keeping this in mind, and wanting to do something with stripes, I decided to make the beloved Isla dress in black and cream stripes:

I have made this dress many times before, so please see here if you would like details on the construction, and a review of the pattern.  

We also took more group photos!!  

You can see the myriad of styles, and how well they blend together.  

I am forever grateful that I got to participate in this event, and look forward to more in the future (wink, wink).

For now, I am getting ready for the summer!  My kids are officially out of school, and I am officially off of work.  It is one of the best times of the year, but it is also when I tend to fade away from blogging.  This year I plan to RESIST the fade...(lol)

While I have been pleased with keeping my sewing plans to two garments a month, I am going to switch that up some for June, July, and August.  I will still do the SYV sewalong, but I would like to work on a mini-capsule.  I have been following along with TomKat Stitchery on YT, and love seeing all of the lookbooks from the garments that she sews.  Currently, she has been sewing "modules" recommended by another Youtuber named Christie Ressel.  

Once I checked out an explanation of the modules, I was hooked!  I can't wait to try it!  Here is the premise of it:

6 pieces of the following create 12 outfit combinations:

  • 1 topper
  • 3 tops
  • 2 bottoms
Each top must coordinate with each bottom, AND if you sew another module up in a complementary color, the outfit combinations go way up!

So, taking this simple formula, I pulled out my favorite kimono as an inspiration piece:

I will use it as a topper, and pull colors from it.  Here are some of my thoughts so far:

1. Sewaholic Renfrew scoop neck tee in a solid navy knit
2. Simplicity shorts in denim
3. Simplicity shorts in white or cotton twill in teal (wouldn't that be pretty?)
4. Still undecided about the other two top choices, but they will be something that coordinate with the pants.  Maybe a sleeveless blouse and sleeveless top?

So expect a slight change of directions for until Fall cycles back around.  I look forward to posting again soon.

Stay sew-filled!

Sunday, May 5, 2019

Springing Florals

Hello everyone!  

I hope you are enjoying the weekend!

Today I am so excited to share the reveal of Atlanta Sewing Style's recent photoshoot!! The first look I made was for the  "Springing Florals" theme.  As soon as Spring gets here, I find that florals are on my mind. I just love that they feel bright, beautiful, and full of life.

However, when I first heard of the theme, I admit to being stumped as to what I would sew. That's when I found this teal jersey print at Fine Fabrics.  I was immediately drawn to the bold beautiful colors, and loved that the floral motif was whispered throughout.  I found the Mccalls 6073 maxi version in my pattern stash, and my look was born:

This is a size 12 with the following adjustments:
  • 3/8" forward shoulder
  • 1/2" dart removed at bustline for neckline gaping
  • front crossover tacked for modesty
Though the adjustments do not sound like much, the main amount of work for this maxi was the bodice.  It took me three tries to get rid of the neckline gaping, and get the fit to a place I was happy with.  In hindsight I should have anticipated this because I have had issues with gaping in other necklines many times before.  Gladly, once I got the gaping under control, the front crossover fell at a really nice place, and all I needed was a tack to keep it comfortably closed.  Voila! No cami or tank underneath needed, lol!

This maxi dress also has lovely features like gathering at the bodice, and slight gathering at the back waist.  When I read reviews of other versions for this dress on Patternreview I saw that the elastic casing was a lot of times left out.  In my opinion, I decided to put the waist elastic in because it cinches my waist just right, and enhances the back gathers.  While sewing this, you may want to take that into account and adjust this feature for what works best for you.

Overall, this is a lovely pattern for a confident beginner and up--once you get the bodice fitted for your liking.  

But I would be remiss if I didn't tell you a little bit more about our photo shoot!!  There were a lot of crazy talented sewists there, and they brought the "heat" in so many ways!!!

Personally I was just SO inspired by everyone's interpretation of florals for Spring!! So many sew sisters coming together, showcasing their craft, and letting their creativity speak for itself.  We represent Atlanta, and we love to sew!  

The host location was Topstitch lounge--the cutest fabric shop inside of Ponce City Market.  If you ever get a chance to visit, please go.  You will be glad you did! And if you like Indie patterns, then your heart will be fulfilled because they have an entire wall of just about every independant pattern company.  

Here are a few photos of the inside:

The day was so amazing and I was glad to be a part!

Would you like to be a part?  Check out @Atlanta Sewing Style to follow along with the fun, or join in with us too!  Stay tuned for more looks to be announced next month.

Now, who's in love with the maxi dress as much as I am?? More maxis please!!!

Stay sew filled!

Saturday, May 4, 2019

Catching up, and May plans

Hello everyone!

I am beginning to believe that there must be a few times when you follow the plan, and other times that you just go rogue!!! LOL!  For April, I pretty much went rogue.  I loved my plans for the month, but since I was working on a prior commitment, all of my sewing time got squeezed out.

However, I did have a BLAST at Project Sew Atlanta!!!!!  I don't even think I can find the words to describe all of the beautiful sewists I met, or how nice everyone was.  The event was a collaboration between @thatssewmonica and @atlantasewingstyle.  Monica, who also hosts the monthly Sew Your View on IG, was AMAZING!!!!  So humble, so sweet, so beautiful, and such a warm personality.  I only wish I would have taken more photos!!!  Nikki, who co-hosted the event, heads up Atlanta Sewing Style. It was also a pleasure to meet her!  She has a wonderful vision for Atlanta sewists, and has created this group (which I am a part of) to bring the local sewing community together in a fun and creative way.

This is the only photo I captured, and it was near the beginning of the event, so everyone was setting up their spaces. We were all in a big room filled with tables and outlet access for all our machines.  There were groups of four to each table, and additional ironing stations in multiple corners.  There was also a cutting table in the center of the room, and some benches pushed together for additional layout space.  The setup gave everyone a chance to chat with their respective "group" but also not feel cramped in the space.

For the morning there was coffee and light refreshments, followed by pizza during the afternoon.  I stayed and sewed until 12:30pm, but I wished I could have been there for the entire event which ended at 4.  Right before I left there was a time of sharing where everyone gathered around and shared their social media handles and information.  There was just so much inspiration in one room!!! So many creative minds working on such beautiful things.  

Actually, there is already another event coming up on May 25th!  If this sounds like something you would love to attend, and you live in the Atlanta area, or are willing to travel (we had someone drive from Florida) then follow @atlantasewingstyle. There will be some exciting things showcased starting the weekend of May 4th!

That said, here is the Isla dress I completed at Project Sew:

I have really learned to maximize my time at sew events!  Yes, I love to socialize, but I also want to go home with a finished garment.  So, I usually bring TNTs when I have extended sewing time.  That way I can sew without pattern instructions, and still chat with others without gettting distracted from what I am doing.

I am sure you are wondering what I will be doing for Me Made May 2019.  Last year I had so much fun taking daily photos, and participating in an online FB group contest, BUT this year I won't be as intensive.  I will still be celebrating my handmades "in the spirit of MMMay, yet at this point in my sewing journey I think my next challenge would be to work on pants. 

I haven't chosen any patterns for the month yet, but I am excited about the Sew Your View pattern choice for May:

I really love the longer length variations, and the sleeve detail on View C is such a different take on a shirt dress.  Again, I will be looking through my stash to see if I can utilize fabric I already have.  The fabric recommendations are: chambray, cotton, linen, seersucker and shirting.  I am certain I still have some shirtings, though not positive I have enough yardage.  This one is a real fabric hog, lol!

Overall, I am SO thankful to be moved back into my home! I am looking forward to this month, being back in my sewing closet to sew, sew, sew!

Stay sew-filled!