Monday, August 18, 2014

Fabric Haul and M5894 Muslin Pics

Hello everyone!

Happy Monday!  I hope you enjoyed your weekend!  I got a chance to tweak the fit on my muslin for Mccalls' "Perfect jeans" pattern, M5894.  I spent a little over 2 hours on the crotch curve, and though I still have more tweaking to do (yes) I am happy about the direction it is going in.  In fact, I thought it was terrible having to create two muslins, but Angela Wolf says that she made SEVEN the first time she made jeans!!!  Wow!  Somehow, knowing that makes my second muslin not as bad.

So, I got a comment on my last post from Anne about showing pictures of my muslin (on me).  I have no problem doing that, I just didn't know anyone was interested in the process, so I left that out.  When I went to take the photos, I quickly realized that it was not easy to get good pics of my back.  So...I did the best I could.  I hope you get the drift from the photos I have:

For the front, I think I have WAY too much fabric coming over my navel.  I originally added 1/2" to the crotch depth, but didn't think about the fact that the waistband sits right at the waist.  That extra 1/2" makes the rise WAY too high for me.  I like my pants a little lower than the navel.  The rise is also covered in Angela Wolf's Craftsy class.  I will be experimenting with taking 1/2" to maybe more out, and making sure I don't get any wrinkling as a result.  Other than that, I am happy with the way it is looking.

The back is my favorite!  I really wish I could show you a picture of how it started--there has been SOOO much improvement!!  I started with a swayback adjustment, still ended up reducing the waist side seams by 1 inch on each side, tapered the side seams from the hips down to shape the legs some more, and took a 3/4" wedge out the back waist.  

I also deepened the crotch curve and lowered it an inch or so.  It was A LOT of fiddling, but worth it.  There is still a bit of excess fabric under my bottom, so I will look at more scooping today.

Transferring all these changes to my original pattern makes me a little uneasy, so I will probably deconstruct my muslin and use that as a template.  I read about it on a blog somewhere and thought "How brilliant, why didn't I think of that?"  

After all my changes I will attach the waistband for the final look on my muslin.  Hopefully that will be done by today, and I will get some updated pictures for you soon.

In other things, I also created a small dent in fabric-buying for my Fall Wardrobe.  I purchased some goodies from Fabric Marts Fabrics that I LOVE!!!!

See for yourself:

I love the Maggy London Ponte Knit!!  It is so luxurious feeling!  I also love the cream and sand color.  They will be great neutrals to tie in with other things I am sewing.

None of the Ponte Knits I ordered are a disappointment.  They are all midweight, and fabulous!  I haven't decided what to do with these yet, but I love the colors.  For the black cotton blend knit, it is pretty stable, and will be great for a stylish tee or two.

This ITY knit was one I considered my "I'm going to try something a little different than what I normally choose."  It is part of the Julie's Picks club, and I really liked the swatch when I received it, so I figured "Why not!"  I'm sure this will become a top too.

Also, a word about the Julie's Picks club.  I don't ever see anyone mention it, but I like it. Membership ends at the end of each year, so the club price starts out at $50, but is now pro-rated to $25 since there are only four months left in the year.  You get a discount of half the amount you pay for membership, and that goes toward any fabric purchase from Fabrics Mart.  Of course, the fabrics offered are exclusive to club member's only, and you receive swatches of all the picks (30) by the 1st of the month.  You also get an email with a digital download of the collection.  I was super impressed when I received all my swatches.  I really liked over half of them, only I didn't buy a lot of them because they would not fit into my wardrobe scheme well.  Also, my other favorite was already sold out when I got to it.

I'll see how the rest of this year's picks go, but I am happy about it so far!

Stay sew-filled!

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Update on jeans sewing

Hello everyone!

I hope all is well!  I figured I would check in with all of you and at least let you know how I have been doing.  As you know, my fall wardrobe sewing is in full effect...and I am finding out that sewing pants is not for the faint of heart.

I created a second muslin yesterday, and have been working out the fit on this one.  I realized I was in desperate need of a swayback adjustment with my first version, so I added one in muslin #2.  Now I have this weird pooling under my buttocks, so I will need to try adjusting the crotch curve.  I tell you, I knew fitting my full butt would be a challenge, but wheeeeeewwwww!  The only thing that keeps me motivated is knowing how grateful I will be once I get the fit where it needs to be.

I have been using the Colette Pants fitting Cheatsheet to help myself along, as well as my pants fitting book by Palmer/Pletsch, and some library books.  I should also add that Angela Wolf's Craftsy class I am taking has an area on achieving good fit where she demonstrates some common alterations people need.  Between all of this vast information, I think I can figure out how to get a great fit.  And if all else fails, I can always show Angela Wolf a pic of my muslin, and ask her for her opinion.

Speaking of Craftsy, did anyone take advantage of their big summer sale?  They definitely got me--hook, line, and sinker!  I ended up buying two classes.  One about fitting the back, neck, and shoulders (something I have had a lot of trouble with), and another on....THE BODICE SLOPER!!!  Ha, ha!  I knew I would get back around to my sloper sometime.  This class uses your own measurements to develop a fitting sloper for wovens AND (with some minor adjustments) knits.  I am SOOOO excited!!  The instructor, Suzy Furrer says that the whole process can be done in 10 hours.  So if I multiply that number by 3 I should be able to have a sloper done by the time the year is out!!!

Lastly, my kids started school last week!!!  I have been enjoying relaxing days of sewing, and I am realizing just what a SLOW sewer I am.  Nevertheless, I am loving having time to enjoy my craft without little voices constantly asking me questions.  Here is a pic of them on the first day:

My hubby and I decided to take them to Chick-Fil-A for breakfast in order to "celebrate."  My princess started Kindergarten, and my son is in second grade.  This is their first year in the same school together, and big brother was taking it SERIOUSLY.  

He has definitely taken on the responsibility of making sure his little sister was well taken care of!  He made sure she got to the right class, and knew the best ice cream to buy in the lunchroom.  I loved watching them walk in together, and it made starting Kindergarten a little less hard for me.

Stay sew-filled!

Monday, July 28, 2014

Fall Wardrobe Planning (cont.)

Hello everyone! I hope you had a great weekend.

I am finished with my Fall 2014 Wardrobe planning!!!

Yep, I finished all my storyboards, and look forward to getting started on August 7th.  My only disappointment is that I will miss a lot of the great patterns that are released for Fall/Winter, because I am determined to sew from my plan.  Unless I get way ahead of myself (and complete a large percentage of my wardrobe), I don't imagine I will have much room to sew other things.

So here are the rest of my boards:

I am not even sure if I own a button down shirt.  Or, if I do (I'm sure I have one somewhere), I know it is OLD.  It has been at least two years since I have done buttonholes on my sewing machine, so this category will be an interesting one to undertake.

I love tunics!  I hope these will be fun to make (and wear).

If you have been following along on my blog, you know that I already started M5894, the bootcut jean.  I have been working out fit issues so I can complete my first pair of jeans, and this will be my first project to finish come August.

I am excited about these three dresses!  I love the design of each and every one of them.  A good dress has so many possibilities!!

I don't plan on sewing a coat this year, however, I do want to sew some blazers.  S2446 will be my main go-to, so I am looking forward to the fact that it is in the Amazing Fit line.  A1738 will be a more casual option.  If this one works out well, I may sew more than one!

Finally, I couldn't possibly get through the year without sewing the ever-so-popular M6844, right? I threw in NL6104 because it is the only blouse I could find that I liked, and Burda 6990 just looks like a solid sweater pattern for Fall/Winter.

That's everything!

I already have a few fabrics in my stash that will work with my theme, yet a lot of it will need to be purchased.

Hopefully, I can catch some great online sales in the upcoming weeks.

Stay sew-filled!

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Fall Wardrobe Planning

Hello everyone!

I know that there are a lot of you who are still in "summer mode," and are not even THINKING about fall wardrobe planning.  Usually, I would be right there with you.  I am the last one to commit to season changes because I enjoy living my days out one at a time.  But...I have been bitten by the fall wardrobe planning bug!  I have been infected with thoughts of color palettes, pattern choices, and wardrobe necessities.  In fact, in my mind, I am going to create the most fabulous fall wardrobe ever!

Actually, here in Georgia, we will probably have warm weather until October, and I have enough summer items to get me through.  I may add an item here or there in the time being, but I am shifting my focus to using the months of August, September, and early October to start sewing for Fall.

This brings me back to my original plan when I joined the RTW fast.  I wanted to sew items from each of these categories:

  • Button Down Shirts
  • Stylish Tees
  • Tunics
  • Blouses
  • Blazers
  • Little Black Dress
  • Daydress
  • Sweaters
  • Bootcut Jeans
  • Skinny Jeans
  • Wrap Shirt
  • Cardigan
If I take a hard look at my progress, I am more than halfway through the year, and I have really only sewn for one category--stylish tees.  It's gonna take some focus, and hard work, but I believe that there is still enough time left in the year for my to recover well.

So for my Fall Wardrobe planning, I will be incorporating the categories I have neglected.  I have already chosen a basic color scheme:

I am wanting to go for a more classic theme (hence the black, white, and cream).  I added the red and purple for a pop of color.  My main goal is to create timeless pieces that will form a good foundation for days to come.  For jeans, I will be going with a dark wash.  This obviously doesn't fit into my color scheme, but it is a great neutral.

I will be creating a storyboard for each of these categories so I can stay on track come August. Here are my choices for Stylish Tees (my most sewn category):

I have already sewn Burda 6910 and Vogue 8536.  With Burda 6910, I had issues with the neckline, but I really think I could fix it, and get it to fit well if I worked with it.  So I will be re-visiting this one, hopefully with a victory in the end.  Vogue 8536 is a favorite of mine, and I would really like to try the crossover version with long sleeves.  The rest will all be new to me.  I am most nervous about Simplicity 1463 because it has that batwing-like style for the top.  It will either look great, or horrible, but I am really drawn to the style, so I want to give it a try.

How many tops does one really need?

I'm not sure how to answer that question.  I guess I will see as I move along.  I know I should at the very least start out with seven.

I'm working on putting the rest of my storyboards together, and will show you those in the next couple of days.  I realize that I love planning!  I know it's only the first part, and you do have to put the plan in action, but I love declaring vision.

Now that I have chosen my Fall colors, I will be on the lookout for fabric choices that fit into the color scheme.  Hmmm...I might unofficially add navy into the mix.

Stay sew-filled!