I hope this Superbowl Sunday finds you relaxing and enjoying your day. I am enjoying mine because I finally finished my Vogue 8536 wadder re-do!!
Apparently, the THIRD TIME is the charm for me!! I worked on another version of this top in a beautiful striped sweater knit, but I just could not get past the sleeves. I followed Jenna's advice from my last post by removing the excess ease (there was 1/2 inch more than needed) from the sleeve cap, but it was still giving me problems. After I finally got the sleeve set in perfectly by sewing it in flat, I ruined my shirt completely when I ran the raw edges through my serger.
By this time I was beginning to think this pattern was a curse!! Everytime I would make some progress, I would cause another setback.
The good thing is...I never give up easily!!
I thought of the saying that no matter how much you fail, you are only a failure if you quit. I knew I was one step away from a good result if I stayed determined. So, I went to Hobby Lobby, bought a pretty leopard print cotton knit, and started all over.
Since I was having trouble with sleeves, I started to research what I could be doing wrong with my technique. I remembered a book I purchased from Amazon when I first started sewing, authored by Nancy Zieman, called 10,20,30 Minutes To Sew. I found an excellent reference on the easiest way to sew in sleeves, using the stretch of the bias to your advantage.
My sleeves set in perfectly! I also think that my fabric choice had a lot to do with my sleeve success on this pattern, though. The cotton knit has a much smaller amount of stretch than the rayon knit I used the first go round. It was much more stable and easier to work with.
I sewed a size 10 with no changes. It is a bit snug, but it works for me. I am realizing that the outcome of the final garment when sewing with knits hinges on really thinking about the characteristics of the fabric you are working with, such as stretchiness. A size 10 worked perfect with the super stretch of the rayon knit, yet was much more snug with this stable cotton knit. I ended up compensating by sewing my shirt with 1/2 inch seam allowances.
Other than my sleeve challenges from earlier attempts, this pattern was relatively easy to sew. The V-neckline went through without a hitch, and looks amazing. I left out the vented hem, and just sewed my side seams together. For finishing, I used my serger, and a twin needle for topstitching the neckline, hem, and sleeves.
I would definitely recommend this pattern for someone of all skill levels. It is a nice basic that will fit perfectly in any wardrobe. Believe it or not, I plan to sew this again. I don't believe it is a TNT for me yet, but I would like to make some minor tweaks to it now that I feel a lot more confident sewing it together.
Here are some design changes I would like to make for my next version:
It is true, fit is everything! I noticed some drag lines near the seam where my arm and shoulder meet. I consulted a fit reference I have, and discovered that most likely an adjustment for sloping shoulders is necessary. This adjustment lowers the armhole some, and creates a slight slope in the shoulder seam so that this extra fold is not evident. I don't know if it will work, but if it does, I'm sure it may be an adjustment I might need to make on other garments I sew. Also, I would love to see how a swayback adjustment changes the way garments fit me in the back. I have a prominent butt, so that might not be the only adjustment I need to make, but I would like to start there.
So I spent most of my January on Vogue 8536!!!! Thanks for hanging in there with me! I will make this one again, but for now I am going to change directions and try a different top. I will reveal it soon...
In closing, I just wanted to give a "shout out" to my awesome photographer--my husband. He has been so patient with me, and worked to give me good quality photos so I can accurately display what I have created.
I'll check in again soon!