Itch to Stitch Seychelles Top

 Hello everyone!

Today I am back with a top that I have a feeling will show up in more of my Spring wardrobe sewing!  It's the Itch to Stitch Seychelles:

I have been looking for a top like this--something I consider dressy casual, and a perfect fit for my job as a preschool teacher.  The pattern comes in two versions, long and short sleeve, with different construction techniques for each sleeve type. The long sleeve has a gathered sleeve cap portion while the short sleeve has pleats.  I chose the long sleeve because I am broad shouldered, and always a little hesitant about doing anything extra around my shoulders.  If I don't have to emphasize them, I won't, lol!  However, after I finished this version, saw other testers' short sleeved versions, and started experiencing warmer temperatures here in GA, I became convinced that I would give short sleeves a go. I think a drapier fabric like a rayon may create an effect more to my liking, and am working on one now.

The good news is that this pattern is created with broad and narrow shouldered people in mind.  The pattern description reads as follows:

"The Seychelles is a versatile top sewing pattern that can be made with structured or soft woven fabric.  With one short sleeve option and one long sleeve option, the Seychelles is perfect for transitional weather.  The combination of narrow shoulders and extra sleeve cap ease creates a balanced, pleasing look whether you have broad or narrow shoulders."

This pattern debuts today for a discounted price, and you can get more information here.

In terms of construction, I sewed a size 4 with an A cup.  I added 1 inch for length and moved the bust dart down 1/2".  The fabric is a crinkle rayon from Joann Fabric.  I found it while perusing the aisles one day, and thought it was so captivating.  I know that rayon can be a challenge to work with, but this fabric sewed beautifully, and I didn't even use a walking foot!  

My favorite feature on the blouse is the cuff with button and button loop.  I had some 1/2" buttons in my stash that had a little pizazz, and they complemented the rayon print so well.  The instructions for the creation of the button loop, and assembly of the cuff was very easy to follow.  I truly enjoy sewing ITS patterns for that reason.  

For the V-neck front, there is a well drafted facing.  If you know me at all, then let me say that I am not a fan of facings.  I just find they do not sit how I want them to.  This facing is not like that.  Once you interface and attach the facing right sides together, you stitch it and turn it to the wrong side of the top.  Kennis then has you clip to the seam line AND understitch the facing.  It lays so beautifully after these two steps.  I was so impressed!  I guess I am always impressed when something exceeds my expectations in a good way.  I am sure I will practice this method on any facings from now on.  I was already understitching, but the spacing of the clips allowed everything to lay better.  If you already do this, then you absolutely know!

Overall, this is a great wardrobe staple!  I am going to include it on my "to-sew" list in the short sleeve version.  It is a top that can be styled in so many ways, and would even look great sleeveless.  If you like a more structured look to the pleats or gathers on the sleeves you could use linen, lawn, poplin, or even sateen as an option.  Again, that is the beautiful part of sewing--you can create the look you want! For more views of some of the testers' versions, see here.

I hope to be back soon with some more Spring Sewing progress!  

Stay sew filled!

Spring Sewing Plans

 Hello everyone!

I am back and ready to share some Spring sewing plans, along with a fabric haul with you!  The weather here has been waffling back and forth from temps of the low 50s to mid 70s, but I think the time is right to start planning and executing some Spring sewing.  

In fact, I spent this past weekend fabric shopping with my best friend!  She drove in from North Carolina and we proceeded to Fine Fabrics with our masks in tow.  Once we got there we found out the entire store was 30% off due to a staff member's birthday!  We could not believe our luck!  So, we spent a good one and a half hours at the store going up and down the aisles, perusing the wares, and making our choices.  I didn't even spend $35!!!! Actually, looking back, I wish I would have gotten a few more pieces.  But...I had already ordered from Denver Fabrics so I decided to buy what I could reasonably sew, lol!

Once I got home I got the idea of pulling all my Spring/Summer fabrics and setting them aside so I can see what I want to sew each day.  I think that having them visually before me will help me to choose patterns for everything and get it sewn up.  Here is what I "think" I can reasonably sew (I may have still overestimated a bit):

As you can see, I have tried to choose a variety of colorways! I am loving tones of red, purple, blue, green, and yellow.  I will still need to get some more bottomweights at some point, yet I am happy with this to start with!  Here are a few of my favorites:

All of these fabrics are either rayon challis from Denver Fabrics, or a rayon blend from Fine Fabrics.  At Fine Fabrics, the only downside is that fabrics are not labeled.  I think there is a lot of polyester blended with what they sell, so I would have to do some further investigation (burn test, etc.) in order to have a better idea of the content.  However, I will say that everything I got from Fine was drapey and appropriate for sewing flowy Spring tops!

For the shirt, I have my eye on Mccalls 8067:

I just love View A!!! It reminds me of the Colette Aster, which I did try at one point.  However, I had so many fitting issues with that top I ended up pitching the whole garment.  I hope this pattern doesn't disappoint.  I also love View C, and see View D has the potential to lead right into Fall. 

This next fabric I picked up from Joann Fabrics, and it is something I am not usually drawn to.  But when I saw the colors and the print I just went gaga, lol!  

I am thinking of using a pattern I received FREE in one of my issues of Simply Sewing magazine:

It is called the Verna Top, and is a loose-fitting top with tie sleeves.  I may have to make a muslin first because I have never sewn from this company before and I REALLY like this fabric and don't want to chance a bad fit.

Now these two I am not sure what I will do with!  I just love animal prints, and want to use them in some way.  One is an ITY knit (on top) and the other is a double brushed poly.  I have been perusing the latest issue of Ottobre Design Woman, and have been DELIGHTED to see quite a few patterns I would love to make:

There are at least SIX (maybe seven with the shift dress) patterns that I am eager to try.  I love the basic top with flutter sleeves, the square neckline top (oh yeah), the button front with the longer back hem, the jacket, the top with side ties, and the MAXI DRESS!  I didn't care for the modeled photos, but I am lovin' all of the line drawings!!!!!!!!!!!  I am hopeful that a lot of these designs will be TNTs.

I am still working on my plan for bottoms.  I wear jeans a lot, even throughout summer.  I don't know if I want to experiment with different pant lengths and designs, or if I want to try other fabrics.  I do imagine I will sew another pair of Ginger jeans though, lol! But, I am open to other silhouettes to go with some of the things I am sewing up.

The last thing I will share with you is my interest in joining the #frugalfrocks 2021 challenge.  I have been seeing so many plans videos about this challenge, and wasn't sure if I would have the time to devote to it.  Well, I am going to give it a go!  The challenge is hosted by @frugalisama and @theyorkshiresewgirl on IG, and there are three simple rules: 

1. Sew a Dress from a free pattern

2. Choose a fabric from your stash

3. Reveal your creation on IG on March 31st and tag the appropriate hosts.

You can visit the link HERE for more information if you are interested in joining.  I really want to use the navy polka dot knit and am considering the Orla:

Whew! That's a whole lot of plans! There are days I wish I could average 3-4 garments a week just so I could finish all I want to sew in about a month and a half.  But of course that is just a wonderful dream! For now I will happily sew through all my new lovelies in hopes of uncovering more of my Spring wardrobe for 2021!

Stay sew filled!

Itch to Stitch Gothenburg Top

 Hello everyone!

I am back today with another review for you!

As soon as I finished sewing the ITS Bainbridge top, the opportunity to sew the Gothenburg became available.  I almost passed it up except for two things--it has EIGHT steps, and is a quick sew!  Winning!  You can definitely sew this top in an hour or less, and the end result is extremely gratifying:

I am so excited to celebrate the release of this pattern today!  It is available now with a special discounted price for a limited time only.  Here is the description:

"The Gothenburg Top is the epitome of casual chic.  With simple lines, the wonderfully easy and elegant Gothenburg lets the fabric do all the talking.  The Gothenburg is designed for structured knit fabric, and as a result, the funnel neck stands up to create an interesting feature."

I sewed a size 4 with "A" cup size.  I added very slight blending to 6 because of the length with this style, and how it falls on the hips (high hip on the front and hip level dip at the back).  I also added my typical 1" lengthening, and moved the bust point down 1/2". My choice of fabric is (did you guess it) microfleece!  LOL!  I am still having fun with this fabric, and knew the structure and low stretch amount would be perfect for the funnel neckline.  

This pattern is wonderful for beginners and up. My biggest tip is to choose your fabric wisely to ensure that the neckline feature is not floppy.  Ponte and Scuba are additional great choices.

For construction of the neckline, you sew right sides together, fold the funnel neck down, and then tack the top side edge of it to the seam allowance.  

 I decided to leave the funnel edges unfinished since I only had gray serger thread, and I didn't want to take a chance at it being seen.  My funnel held up beautifully, though there were other testers who chose to invisibly catch-stitch theirs.  I wore my top the entire day I took these photos and everything stayed nicely.

I did not have anything like this top in my wardrobe already, and now I am SO glad I do!  For an easy sew, it makes a big impact.  If you use a stunning fabric or print, you can really allow the fabric to shine!

You can see the wonderful versions that other pattern testers made by clicking here.

Stay sew filled!

Made It Patterns Hug Hoodie #bhmpatterndesigners

 Hello everyone!

Today's garment has special meaning to me.  Year after year I have wanted to participate in the Black History Month Pattern Designer challenge.  I always seemed to miss it because I was working on other things.  This year, while I had a few other things going on, I decided I was going to finish something if I submitted it on the last day!  Well, that is exactly what I did, lol!  

Here is the Hug Hoodie by Made It Patterns:

I LOVE THIS!

When I saw the line drawing, I knew immediately that I wanted to make this pattern.  Actually, when I saw the version made one of the hosts of the challenge, the Island Sewcialist, it pushed me in the direction to purchase the pattern right away! I adore how the curved hem combines with the hoodie (or neckline) feature.  And the best part is, the overlapped hem is a trick to the eye.  It doesn't even attach all the way up...

I made a size UK 10 lengthened by 2 inches.  I did a little research and looked up other versions of this pattern, and saw that it appeared to be a bit more cropped than I wanted.  I usually always lengthen by 1 inch, since most patterns are drafted for someone 5'6 (this one was), and I am taller.  I threw in another inch for good measure, and it hits me exactly where I want.  However, I would be ok with it if it was a little more cropped too--especially if I wore it with a high-waisted jogger. 

 

The fabric I used is a Solid Ember Rib Knit from Joann Fabrics.  It is a midweight knit that behaved more like a ponte.  I got it on sale, and figured I would use it eventually.  This project was the perfect fit.  For future versions I would definitely play with mixing two different fabrics.  In fact, a neat feature of the instructions is that there is a page of line drawings specifically designed for you to color in the various aspects of the design so you can visualize how the finished garment would look to color block.  I love that!

Also, these instructions are the most fun that I have sewn!! They were very down-to-earth and playful, like you were sewing with your best friend.  I can't wait to sew another garment from this company, and have my eye on the Glide Jacket.  This pattern is a beginner friendly one with in-depth photos and a neckline option if you don't care for a hoodie.

Overall, this one is a KEEPER!!  I am already planning a version for my daughter.  

And thankfully, this hoodie fits!

I was a little nervous, but there was plenty of room to spare. Perhaps it is just low stretch designs I need to be careful of.

I would like to mention one thing I learned with this garment that hit me on a personal level.  I fully believe that representation matters, and love celebrating Black pattern designers as a Black woman myself.  That is a big reason I am grateful to be a part of #bhmpatterndesigners this year. However, I realize I have unintentionally neglected this corner of the market.  I have been so caught up in buying patterns I like in the mainstream, that I haven't seen what else is out there.  Well, now that I am aware, I am going to make more of an effort to sew Black pattern designers as a personal choice.  Sew Natural Dane has a great list of designers to start with, and there are so many great companies that I just wasn't aware of, but am glad to know about now.  I hope that this challenge continues to shine a bright light on these designers/business owners, and impact the sewing world with their voices.  

Stay sew-filled!