Wednesday, June 17, 2020

Change of Plans

Hello everyone!

In my last post I walked you through a sewalong of the Rhapsody blouse, which I am absolutely loving!  I have already worn it and it is such a nice style:


After I finished this blouse, I immediately turned to the Seamwork Willis shirt, thinking I would finish it in time for the Faye's Tops that Pop challenge.  Well, sometimes things get turned around for good reason.  I soon found out that the challenge was postponed, and though I pushed through and finished a wearable muslin for the Willis, it just needed SO much more fitting than I wanted to invest.


In thinking about my issues with the fit, I realized that I usually make a lot of changes to Seamwork patterns in order to make them fit.  I find this particularly true with their woven patterns, but not so much with knits.  At any rate, I decided to move on for now and re-visit this top at a later date.  Since I still wanted a button front top, I decided to make the Kalle tunic instead:


I think the final result is much more to my liking than my Willis muslin.  This is a size 4 graded to 6 in a beautiful rayon/poly challis I purchased from Nick of Time Textiles.  They have a lot of great bottomweights, and when I happened on this fabric while looking at twills, I purchased it for a drapey button up.  Structured or drapey, you can have so much fun with button fronts depending on the fabric you use!! I would love to make more flowy shirts like this one.


Somehow the back looks SO long, lo! I went back and checked my pattern pieces to make sure I cut the right length, and saw that I did.  I have made this shirt twice before and thought I would breeze through the construction, but I totally forgot that the placket takes a little more time.

Here is a short run through:


  1. Place you properly interfaced placket piece on the shirt front.  The right side of the placket will be on the wrong side of the shirt front. Stitch around perimeter as marked.
  2. Cut straight down the middle of the opening (it will be fine, promise) and about 3/4" from corners. Cut up to each corner without cutting the stitches. You will form a triangle wedge.
  3. Turn the placket to the right side of the garment and press. Make sure the edges of the placket are tucked under 3/8." They will line up and cover the edges of stitch line.
  4. Fold the left side of the placket to center front. Topstitch 1/8" on the outside of the placket, stopping at the triangle wedge.
  5. Do the same with the right side of the placket.
  6. Finish the long edge of the right placket by folding it under 45 degrees. Fold the opposite corner under 45 degrees to form a triangular tower shape. Stitch everything in place, and sew an X shape near the bottom.
Once I got past the popover placket it was smooth sailing. I did cut out and sew a pocket with the stripes going in the opposite direction, but I think it made the top look far too busy.  I always cut out the pockets for styles that have them. I sew them up, pin or baste them to the garment, and then decide whether I like it on me.  

Overall, I HIGHLY recommend the Kalle! It is a TNT for me, and such an easy Summer style.  This is another great advanced beginner and up pattern, but don't expect it to be a quick sew.  It took me two days to finish, and I took my time on the bias tape finished edge (love it).  

I am not sure what I will be sewing next, but I will check in with you again soon.  

Stay sew filled!



10 comments:

  1. Looks good!! I just recently learned about Nick of Time so good to know you got a fabric you like from them.

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    1. Thanks! Yeah, they were not really on my radar until recently. I like a lot of their bottom weights and think that they are reminiscent of Denver Fabrics/Fashion Fabrics Club.

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  2. Thanks for sharing the placket construction photos. I always have a hard time with plackets. I have the Kalle, but haven't made it up in a while. Your new shirts look really nice!

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    1. Your welcome! I am trying to take more photos as I sew, and create things that might be helpful in projects. I love my shirts, and can't wait to take them on our family getaway!

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  3. I have fitting issues with Seamwork also. I love your Kalle shirt in the striped fabric. I made the dress two years ago and I love to wear it. I keep saying I am going to sew a shirt; you have provided me with some inspiration!

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    1. Thank you! I could sew stripes all year and still love them, lol! I am glad you are enjoying your own Kalle. I hope to see your shirt should you decide to sew one!

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  4. I love your lovely shirt, Vanessa. You did a very neat job on the placket. Well done 😘

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    1. Thanks Hana! It took a minute to come back to me, but I am glad it did!

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  5. I need to try the Kalle! Your shirt looks great.

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Let me know what you think!