Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Vogue 8536 Revisited "Psychedelic"

Hello everyone!  It is mid-week, and I have a stylish tee to show you!  Somewhere in the middle of my jeans making I realized I needed a small respite, so I could at least feel like I was making progress on my Fall sewing goals.  So, I decided to revisit a pattern I sewed earlier this year, Vogue 8536:

My version is similar to the pattern, with a few variations.  I decided to do a 3/4 sleeve in order to make this a great transition piece.  Also, there is no hem slit at the sides.  Other than that, it is the same.  

For fabric, I used an ITY knit from Fabricmart's Julie's Picks club.  This fabric was my attempt at trying something new, and stepping outside of my "box."  Woo hoo!!!  I love this fabric!  In person it has a psychedelic feel.  There is a slight sheen, and it looks so doggone luxurious.  It really makes this basic design pop!

For adjustments, I played around some more (you all know me and the fun I like to have with fit) with the pattern, and ended up with this:

Size 10
Square shoulder: 1/4"
Broad shoulder: 1/4" (Which I really did NOT need)
Forward shoulder: 1/2" (A little too much, but not noticeable)

In all my fit fiddling, I missed out on the fun of doing a swayback adjustment, but that's ok. I used Craftsy's class Custom Fitting for Back, Neck, Shoulders:

 The instructor, Kathleen Cheetham uses a slide and pivot method for most of the adjustments, and really does a great job to getting more in-depth about why certain adjustments are needed.  I have some fitting handbooks, but I was really curious about knowing the "why," so I could figure out the "what."  The last time I made this shirt, it looked great, and I wore it for the Superbowl; however, I kept getting this annoying pulling at my shoulders.  I am happy to report that this shirt does not have that annoyance factor.  When I wear it, I feel pure joy!

As a side note, I wanted to give a little construction details.  Can you believe I got my serger out for this tee????  Yes, I sure did!  I finally realized that I used to finish my projects a bit speedier because I used my serger--A LOT!  And I wasn't at all tentative about using it in the past.  In fact, I got pretty good the more I utilized it.  So, I am getting over my fear!!!  The worse that could happen is a mistake.  And even then I still have options (hint, hint, buy more fabric).  

For the neckline, I had no issues with it coming together.  However, my problem was with my twin needle.  Ugh!  I really do not like twin needles anymore.  I am just hanging in there for a coverstitch machine.  I used a stretch twin needle, loosened my tension (upper I believe), stabilized my seam, and I still got skipped stitches with a little bunching.  Thankfully, this tee is a print so you can't tell, but if this was a solid color, I would have been disappointed.  I read about trying wooly nylon thread in the bobbin, so I am going to try this next.  If you can see, I have left the hem unfinished for now, but I did get a good hem on the sleeves.  I just didn't want to risk skipped stitches on the bottom hem.

So, I bet you aren't surprise to hear me say this about V8536:

It is still a great basic shirt to make!  My only slight critique is the excess ease in the sleeve head, but that is a small issue to overcome.  There is a wrap top option in this pattern that I will probably come back to, but for now I have another top in mind.  However, I am not opposed to making this one over and over--and over again!

Before I go, I have set a deadline for my jeans to be finished by October 1st.  I will update about my jeans again soon.  I have decided to work on tops in conjunction with my jeans.  I am doing it with the hope that I can begin making a real dent in my Fall sewing plan before Fall actually gets here!

My next top choice is:

It will be View A, the top on the model on the bottom.  It has a looser fit, and 3/4 dolman sleeves (a running theme here).  I took a glance inside the pattern, and I think there are only two pattern pieces! Ha!  Usually those are the patterns I have the most trouble with!  Here's hoping for the best!

Stay sew-filled!


  1. It's so cute Vanessa!! I love that pattern and can't wait to see it sewn up.

    Like you, I am over trying to get good finishes on my knits with the sm and am ready to invest in a coverstitch machine!

  2. Cute top...I love the fabric...Yes! Both yoyu guys need to get a Janome CoverPro. :) It really does a greast top...much nicer than the twin needles!Great review. I never tweek my shoulders and have convinced me to do this. I think I could achieve a better fit that way.

  3. Beautiful top Vanessa,the color looks great on you!

  4. Thanks ladies! Laurie Lou, your comment is right on time. I had my heart set on a Brother coverstitch machine until a couple of days ago when I ran across the Janome CoverPro. I'm going to check out a local sewing shop and see if I can test-drive one/get a know...for when the time comes ; )

  5. Wow Vanessa! It looks so great. Your shirt fits PERFECTLY!!! Make 10 more of them!

    I wish I could come over to help you with your stretch twin needle! I was going to say "make sure it says stretch twin needle and not just twin needle on the package" because that makes a huge difference, but you said stretch, so....hmmmm....maybe I wouldn't be able to help after all.

    I want to get a coverstitch machine some day too, everyone makes it sound amazing. :)

  6. Your top looks so good.

    I have never used an ITY knit. I get nervous about buying random fabric online since I have to feel the fabric to know what I will use it for. I recently purchased a ton from Fabricmart and I was a happy lady.

  7. That top came out really cute! I used to feel the same way about Vogue patterns but I got over it, don't know when. It looks great on you.

  8. No wonder you are pleased - your top has such a great fit. I can't wait to see your jeans too. I love the next top you are making too and think I need that pattern in my stash.

    I can recommend woolly thread for the bobbin - I have only used it twice in twin needle usage and it really makes a difference. I put the tension down to 2 and just sewed like normal. Perfect results. Much better than ever before. I only have an off white colour which I found at the 2nd hand shop but I'll try and get more colours. I have a coverstitch but haven't been brave enough to use it. (2nd hand also but I think it needs a tune up!)

  9. Thank you Summer Flies! I have the Woolly Nylon ordered and on the way. Your tip makes me excited to use it!! I hope it really helps give me good results. Oh, and if you get your coverstitch machine up and running, please do a review!!!!

  10. Love your little top! It's cute and fits you beautifully. I love the fabric you chose. I look forward to seeing your finished jeans!

  11. OH the other thing I thought of is, have you tried a new stretch twin needle? That can make a difference too!

  12. I love it Vanessa!!!! It looks wonderful!

  13. It fits you so perfectly. The color looks really great on you.

  14. Great fitting top, you have definitely sewn up a winner here ... J

  15. Your top looks really nice and I'm sure you've found that you love that ITY.


Let me know what you think!