Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Vogue 8536 Revisited "Psychedelic"

Hello everyone!  It is mid-week, and I have a stylish tee to show you!  Somewhere in the middle of my jeans making I realized I needed a small respite, so I could at least feel like I was making progress on my Fall sewing goals.  So, I decided to revisit a pattern I sewed earlier this year, Vogue 8536:

My version is similar to the pattern, with a few variations.  I decided to do a 3/4 sleeve in order to make this a great transition piece.  Also, there is no hem slit at the sides.  Other than that, it is the same.  

For fabric, I used an ITY knit from Fabricmart's Julie's Picks club.  This fabric was my attempt at trying something new, and stepping outside of my "box."  Woo hoo!!!  I love this fabric!  In person it has a psychedelic feel.  There is a slight sheen, and it looks so doggone luxurious.  It really makes this basic design pop!

For adjustments, I played around some more (you all know me and the fun I like to have with fit) with the pattern, and ended up with this:

Size 10
Square shoulder: 1/4"
Broad shoulder: 1/4" (Which I really did NOT need)
Forward shoulder: 1/2" (A little too much, but not noticeable)

In all my fit fiddling, I missed out on the fun of doing a swayback adjustment, but that's ok. I used Craftsy's class Custom Fitting for Back, Neck, Shoulders:

 The instructor, Kathleen Cheetham uses a slide and pivot method for most of the adjustments, and really does a great job to getting more in-depth about why certain adjustments are needed.  I have some fitting handbooks, but I was really curious about knowing the "why," so I could figure out the "what."  The last time I made this shirt, it looked great, and I wore it for the Superbowl; however, I kept getting this annoying pulling at my shoulders.  I am happy to report that this shirt does not have that annoyance factor.  When I wear it, I feel pure joy!

As a side note, I wanted to give a little construction details.  Can you believe I got my serger out for this tee????  Yes, I sure did!  I finally realized that I used to finish my projects a bit speedier because I used my serger--A LOT!  And I wasn't at all tentative about using it in the past.  In fact, I got pretty good the more I utilized it.  So, I am getting over my fear!!!  The worse that could happen is a mistake.  And even then I still have options (hint, hint, buy more fabric).  

For the neckline, I had no issues with it coming together.  However, my problem was with my twin needle.  Ugh!  I really do not like twin needles anymore.  I am just hanging in there for a coverstitch machine.  I used a stretch twin needle, loosened my tension (upper I believe), stabilized my seam, and I still got skipped stitches with a little bunching.  Thankfully, this tee is a print so you can't tell, but if this was a solid color, I would have been disappointed.  I read about trying wooly nylon thread in the bobbin, so I am going to try this next.  If you can see, I have left the hem unfinished for now, but I did get a good hem on the sleeves.  I just didn't want to risk skipped stitches on the bottom hem.

So, I bet you aren't surprise to hear me say this about V8536:

It is still a great basic shirt to make!  My only slight critique is the excess ease in the sleeve head, but that is a small issue to overcome.  There is a wrap top option in this pattern that I will probably come back to, but for now I have another top in mind.  However, I am not opposed to making this one over and over--and over again!

Before I go, I have set a deadline for my jeans to be finished by October 1st.  I will update about my jeans again soon.  I have decided to work on tops in conjunction with my jeans.  I am doing it with the hope that I can begin making a real dent in my Fall sewing plan before Fall actually gets here!

My next top choice is:

It will be View A, the top on the model on the bottom.  It has a looser fit, and 3/4 dolman sleeves (a running theme here).  I took a glance inside the pattern, and I think there are only two pattern pieces! Ha!  Usually those are the patterns I have the most trouble with!  Here's hoping for the best!

Stay sew-filled!


Mrs. Smith said...

It's so cute Vanessa!! I love that pattern and can't wait to see it sewn up.

Like you, I am over trying to get good finishes on my knits with the sm and am ready to invest in a coverstitch machine!

Laurie Lou said...

Cute top...I love the fabric...Yes! Both yoyu guys need to get a Janome CoverPro. :) It really does a greast top...much nicer than the twin needles!Great review. I never tweek my shoulders and have convinced me to do this. I think I could achieve a better fit that way.

Candice said...

Beautiful top Vanessa,the color looks great on you!

Vanessa said...

Thanks ladies! Laurie Lou, your comment is right on time. I had my heart set on a Brother coverstitch machine until a couple of days ago when I ran across the Janome CoverPro. I'm going to check out a local sewing shop and see if I can test-drive one/get a know...for when the time comes ; )

Kyle said...

Wow Vanessa! It looks so great. Your shirt fits PERFECTLY!!! Make 10 more of them!

I wish I could come over to help you with your stretch twin needle! I was going to say "make sure it says stretch twin needle and not just twin needle on the package" because that makes a huge difference, but you said stretch, so....hmmmm....maybe I wouldn't be able to help after all.

I want to get a coverstitch machine some day too, everyone makes it sound amazing. :)

Annie Case Hanks said...

Your top looks so good.

I have never used an ITY knit. I get nervous about buying random fabric online since I have to feel the fabric to know what I will use it for. I recently purchased a ton from Fabricmart and I was a happy lady.

Evolution of a Sewing Goddess said...

No wonder you're happy. It looks great!

Sabrina Dotson said...

That top came out really cute! I used to feel the same way about Vogue patterns but I got over it, don't know when. It looks great on you.

Summer Flies said...

No wonder you are pleased - your top has such a great fit. I can't wait to see your jeans too. I love the next top you are making too and think I need that pattern in my stash.

I can recommend woolly thread for the bobbin - I have only used it twice in twin needle usage and it really makes a difference. I put the tension down to 2 and just sewed like normal. Perfect results. Much better than ever before. I only have an off white colour which I found at the 2nd hand shop but I'll try and get more colours. I have a coverstitch but haven't been brave enough to use it. (2nd hand also but I think it needs a tune up!)

Vanessa said...

Thank you Summer Flies! I have the Woolly Nylon ordered and on the way. Your tip makes me excited to use it!! I hope it really helps give me good results. Oh, and if you get your coverstitch machine up and running, please do a review!!!!

Tomasa said...

Love your little top! It's cute and fits you beautifully. I love the fabric you chose. I look forward to seeing your finished jeans!

Kyle said...

OH the other thing I thought of is, have you tried a new stretch twin needle? That can make a difference too!

Keiva said...

I love it Vanessa!!!! It looks wonderful!

The Sewing CPA said...

It fits you so perfectly. The color looks really great on you.

Judith said...

Great fitting top, you have definitely sewn up a winner here ... J

Dorothy DotDot said...

Your top looks really nice and I'm sure you've found that you love that ITY.