Itch to Stitch Bainbridge Pullover

 Hello everyone!

I am over the moon excited to be sharing a new pattern release with you today!  I have been a fan of the Itch to Stitch pattern company since I sewed the Uvita top a year or so ago.  I thought it was a great pattern to gauge the way the pattern fit on me, and as a free download, who could ask for more?  Well, just recently I saw a public testing call for the Itch to Stitch Bainbridge pullover.  As you may know, I have been in a relaxed and easygoing mode here lately.  When I sewed the Sew News Palmer Pullover I fell in love with the comfort and style of the garment, and appreciated that I didn't have anything else like it in my wardrobe.  The Bainbridge pullover looked like an opportunity to add more items in this category; so, I applied to test the ITS pattern, and was pleased when I found out I was accepted!

This pattern is fabulous!

The line drawing alone drew me in...

It has a half front placket with snaps, stand-up collar, bias-bound hem and sleeve hem.  I am always intrigued when you do not have to do a traditional hem.  That is one of the reasons I like the Sewaholic Renfrew, and sew it every year.  Other positive notes to this pattern include cup sizes, bust darts for shaping, and POCKETS! 

Now that you know the description, let me tell you how I did with this pattern.

Can I tell you I am now in love with cup sizes??  This was my first time using them, and my measurements put me in the A cup category.  So I made a size 4A with no grading.  I figured the ease in the pattern would cover my waist measurement sufficiently, and it did.  My only other adjustments were my normal 1" lengthening of bodice/placket, 1/4" forward shoulder adjustment, and 1/2" lowered bust point.

The instructions were wonderful!  There were two techniques I especially loved.  For the binding, you start with the RIGHT side of the tape pinned to the WRONG side of the fabric.  Then, when you stitch it and fold the tape over to the RIGHT side, you simply edgestitch it and you are done.  It is great because you don't have to blindly catch the underside, and the seen portion comes out beautifully due to the stitching.  This is going to be my preferred method!

My second favorite method was the pocket construction for the front.  Kennis Wong (ITS creator) has you use the seam allowance to attach the pockets, and they are then stitched down and closed off with the bias bound hem.  So nice!!!!

The fabric I used is a Microfleece in a burgundy color from Joann Fabrics.  For the contrast I used cotton plaid because I wanted to make my own bias binding.  You can certainly purchase your binding if you like.  Microfleece is quickly becoming an absolute favorite of mine! It sews beautifully, has some structure, but also enough minimal stretch in it to comfortably fall on your body.  Other recommended fabrics include Sherpa, sweatshirting, and any medium weight stretch woven.  There were so many lovely versions made by other testers, and you can check them out by visiting the Itch to Stitch blog.

I styled the top with my beloved Ginger jeans--the second pair I ever made. They are now very loved and worn in. 

For the snaps I used Snapsource size 16 in Antique Brass.  I already had the adapter to install the snaps since I have sewn baby clothes for friends in the past, and I was looking forward to using the tool for an "adult" project, lol!  I forgot how EASY they are to install, and now I want more reasons to put snaps on all the things!

Overall, I can't say enough good things about this top! It feels really good on, and I am grateful for the opportunity to test for Itch to Stitch.  I can say that there will be more testing involved with them in the future (woo hoo), and I have now fully converted to team Itch to Stitch by purchasing the Castillo cardigan to sew for Spring. 

Stay sew filled!

Love Notions Oakley Vest

 Hello everyone!

Today I am back with an item I finished in January--the Love Notions Oakley vest.  I wanted to compile everything I sewed for the month in a post, but I just didn't have the heart to do it. So, I am posting things here and there with the hopes of having some garments to share for February.

Now, on to the Love Notions Oakley vest!

This vest has been on my list for many years.  I kept missing the "window of opportunity" to sew and wear it, so I would push it to the following year.  Once this year started I got into a rhythm of sewing vests, and this style popped into my queue immediately. I am so glad it did!

 Love Notions is quickly becoming a favorite Indie pattern company of mine.  I have found quite a few gems in their line, and I am sure there are still more to discover.  This particular vest pattern has three different views.  I made View B with patch pockets and collar.  There is also an option for a hood.  I would love to revisit this one for View A, a fully lined open vest designed for textured fabrics like faux furs.  

I made a size Small graded to Medium, and added my normal 1" for a longer torso.  The fabric is from Joanns, a quilted knit in red and black.  The stretch for this fabric is minimal, and the reverse side is a lovely quilted gray.  It is sturdy enough for this pattern, with just enough shaping for a comfortable fit.  While I was in Joann's the other day I noticed they have an entire line of beautiful quilted fabric in both solids and prints.  I highly recommend it for projects like these!

One of the things I loved was the binding of the patch pockets.  While this is a relatively simple pattern with only a few pieces, the bias binding was where all the real work was for me! I mean, come on!! LOL!  It is not hard to apply, only finicky. I purchased 1/2" double fold bias binding for this project in black, and it worked wonders. The only tricky part was navigating corners, but I found an amazing Youtube video that made it all clear.

Working with the plaid check also took a bit more time and attention on my part.  I have wanted to venture out with plaids, and have even started watching some Craftsy tutorials in order to continue to become more proficient in this area.  I am happy with how everything lined up at center front and side seams for this one!

A little trick I learned in the Craftsy class came in handy while cutting out the collar.  I originally tried to match it to the garment but kept running into issues.  I didn't have much fabric left (always buy more for plaids, ALWAYS), so I changed the orientation of the collar piece so that it was on the bias. I think it adds a nice detail to the collar, which I also ended up interfacing for stability.

For the zipper insertion I used a 27" plastic jacket zipper that I purchased from Wawak.  If you make the pattern as is, you would only need a 26" zipper, or less.  I wanted my zipper to come all the way up the vest because I planned on zipping it all the way up sometimes so 27" ended up being the perfect length for that.

The zipper is the last thing to be attached in the pattern, since all of the edges are bound at this point.  

I did tweak the fit of the shoulder seams and armholes a tiny bit.  When I tried the vest on, it was just a touch too long, so I trimmed off 1/4" before I applied the binding.  Other than that, this vest was worth all of the finagling I did to finish it!

I really appreciate the gentle curve of the hem, and I am wearing it with a black ribbed knit top made from Kwik Sew 3766.  Overall, I am so pleased with this pattern!  

Stay sew filled!