Friday, February 7, 2020

Make Nine#1 S2311 Planning

Hello everyone!

I am back to share the planning for my first Make Nine Short Coat of 2020!  Meet Simplicity 2311:




This is an out-of-print pattern from the Project Runway series some years back.  I bought it because I liked View A, the short coat to the far left in the Caramel color.  Once I purchased the pattern I stored it away, and it has not been seen since lol!  I am pretty sure I forgot I owned it!  While browsing through my Outerwear patterns, I stumbled upon it and knew I was still excited about putting this one together.

I realize I am starting this coat when the weather here can burst into Spring at any time.  It's a risk for sure, but most times it starts to warm up in March.  The forecast these past weeks have been in the high 60s and low 70s, so I definitely started to worry a little bit.  But, it seems to have dropped to the 30s, so I might be able to wear this coat a few times before packing it away for late Fall.

Now, on to my plans...



I am starting with a beautiful jacketing I ordered from Denver Fabrics (aka Fashion Fabrics Club). It is a cotton and polyester twill weave with a brushed flannel side, and an untextured reverse side, in a butterscotch color. I love the brushed side! It is super soft, and I think it will work well for this pattern.

Already cut out pattern pieces
I planned on a size 14 graded to 16, but made a few adjustments when I created my muslin (more on that later).  For the lining, I mistakenly ordered one yard.  No matter how I tried to wiggle around it, I didn't have enough fabric for all my lining pieces, so this is what I did:



The sleeves are pinned because the shoulder seam attaches in two places due to the shawl collar, but I had to use to a coordinating solid for the sleeve lining.  My thoughts are that you won't even see it with the final garment.  The lining is a black/buff animal print in dobby crepe.  It is so amazing in person, and I just couldn't resist the animal print for a pop of pizazz!

For the muslin, the construction of the shawl collar was new to me.  I found a wonderful video by Diane Deziel and saw that the process is quite simple once you mark your stitching lines.   I am still bad at marking, lol!!  




I am pleased with the overall look of the muslin, and I appreciate the clean lines of the back.  If you are making a coat for the first time, and have some sewing experience, this pattern is a good choice. 


For my adjustments, I added 1" in length as I usually do.  I left out the forward shoulder adjustment only because I wasn't sure how to do it properly since the shoulder seam intersects with two pieces.  On the final version I will make a straight size 14.  That should clean up some of the additional fullness, and still give me enough ease to wear sweaters underneath the jacket.  I imagine the additional layers from the lining, interfaced pieces, and shoulder pads will add structure too.

So there you have it!  My first Make Nine choice is on its way!!!

I have already cut out my pieces and have to swing by Joanns again to try out another type of interfacing, since the Pellon 931TD didn't adhere properly (sigh).  I have heard good things about fusible knit tricot via My Bluprint, and will see if I like that instead.  

This weekend I also plan to meet with a few friends to sew.  I will update you on how that goes, as well as any additional plans for February next week.  

Stay sew filled!  


10 comments:

  1. YAY! I have always liked that pattern. I really like your fabric choice too and smart workaround for your lining.

    Can't wait to see it!

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    1. Thank you! The pattern has lots of good reviews on PR too. I am glad you like it!

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  2. Oh this is going to be good! I like the animal print lining, too. Yay on make9 progress!

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    1. I hope so too! I got so nervous cutting into my final fabric!!

      I look forward to seeing how your Make9 goes!

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  3. Looking great already! FYI: I order my garment interfacing online from Fashion Sewing Supply: https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/ No affiliation, just great products with great customer service.

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    1. Thank you for the recommendation!!!!! I will check them out for my other projects. I like good service!

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  4. I like this coat pattern. We are having the same temperatures in my area and thus keep fluctuating from sewing for warm or cold weather. Look forward to seeing the completed coat. Loving the lining!

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  5. Thank you! The weather sure can be funny, and make it harder to sew for. We got snow today! I guess we learn to work with it, lol!

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Let me know what you think!