Make Nine#1 S2311 Planning

Hello everyone!

I am back to share the planning for my first Make Nine Short Coat of 2020!  Meet Simplicity 2311:

This is an out-of-print pattern from the Project Runway series some years back.  I bought it because I liked View A, the short coat to the far left in the Caramel color.  Once I purchased the pattern I stored it away, and it has not been seen since lol!  I am pretty sure I forgot I owned it!  While browsing through my Outerwear patterns, I stumbled upon it and knew I was still excited about putting this one together.

I realize I am starting this coat when the weather here can burst into Spring at any time.  It's a risk for sure, but most times it starts to warm up in March.  The forecast these past weeks have been in the high 60s and low 70s, so I definitely started to worry a little bit.  But, it seems to have dropped to the 30s, so I might be able to wear this coat a few times before packing it away for late Fall.

Now, on to my plans...

I am starting with a beautiful jacketing I ordered from Denver Fabrics (aka Fashion Fabrics Club). It is a cotton and polyester twill weave with a brushed flannel side, and an untextured reverse side, in a butterscotch color. I love the brushed side! It is super soft, and I think it will work well for this pattern.

Already cut out pattern pieces

I planned on a size 14 graded to 16, but made a few adjustments when I created my muslin (more on that later).  For the lining, I mistakenly ordered one yard.  No matter how I tried to wiggle around it, I didn't have enough fabric for all my lining pieces, so this is what I did:

The sleeves are pinned because the shoulder seam attaches in two places due to the shawl collar, but I had to use to a coordinating solid for the sleeve lining.  My thoughts are that you won't even see it with the final garment.  The lining is a black/buff animal print in dobby crepe.  It is so amazing in person, and I just couldn't resist the animal print for a pop of pizazz!

For the muslin, the construction of the shawl collar was new to me.  I found a wonderful video by Diane Deziel and saw that the process is quite simple once you mark your stitching lines.   I am still bad at marking, lol!!  

I am pleased with the overall look of the muslin, and I appreciate the clean lines of the back.  If you are making a coat for the first time, and have some sewing experience, this pattern is a good choice. 

For my adjustments, I added 1" in length as I usually do.  I left out the forward shoulder adjustment only because I wasn't sure how to do it properly since the shoulder seam intersects with two pieces.  On the final version I will make a straight size 14.  That should clean up some of the additional fullness, and still give me enough ease to wear sweaters underneath the jacket.  I imagine the additional layers from the lining, interfaced pieces, and shoulder pads will add structure too.

So there you have it!  My first Make Nine choice is on its way!!!

I have already cut out my pieces and have to swing by Joanns again to try out another type of interfacing, since the Pellon 931TD didn't adhere properly (sigh).  I have heard good things about fusible knit tricot via My Bluprint, and will see if I like that instead.  

This weekend I also plan to meet with a few friends to sew.  I will update you on how that goes, as well as any additional plans for February next week.  

Stay sew filled!